If you have landed here, you probably have a Hunter Claymore hanging from your ceiling or sitting half assembled in a box on your living room floor, and you want the paperwork that tells you exactly how to put it together, wire it up, and get it spinning without any surprises. The full manual is embedded further down this page so you can read it or download it in seconds, and the guidance below walks you through every part of owning this fan in plain language, from mounting and wiring through balancing, troubleshooting, and long term care. The Claymore has been sold in more than one version over the years, so the first job is making sure the instructions you follow actually match the fan you own, and that is where we will start once you have the document in front of you.
Read the Full Hunter Claymore Manual Here
The complete Hunter Claymore owner’s manual is embedded below, covering the parts list, assembly diagrams, wiring layout, and the official troubleshooting chart straight from Hunter. You can scroll through it directly on this page, zoom in on any diagram, or download it to your phone or computer so you have it handy while you are up on the ladder. If the viewer does not load on your device, use the download link to open the PDF in a new tab instead.
Figuring Out Which Claymore You Actually Own
Before you follow a single step, flip the manual open to the model number, because Hunter has produced the Claymore in two distinct builds and they are not assembled or wired in quite the same way. The older run carried model number 28787 and measured fifty two inches across, spinning a twelve degree blade pitch and lighting the room through a bulb fixture that took two sixty watt candelabra bulbs. The newer and far more common build is model 54014, which stretches to fifty four inches with a thirteen degree blade pitch and a dimmable LED bowl light instead of the older candelabra setup. Both versions share the same brushed cocoa finish, the same carved alder wood blades with the Victorian styling, and the same WhisperWind motor, so at a glance they look almost identical, but the light kit wiring and the bulb type differ enough that grabbing the wrong section of the manual will slow you down. The model number is printed on a label on the motor housing and on the original box, and once you have confirmed it you can move through the rest of these steps knowing which light kit and which bulb count apply to your fan.
Getting the Fan Mounted So It Sits Flush and Level
The Claymore uses Hunter’s Installer’s Choice three position mounting system, which is the reason this fan works in so many rooms without any extra parts. You can hang it on the included downrod for a standard eight or nine foot ceiling, mount it low and close to the ceiling when the room is tight and you want to keep every inch of headroom, or angle it for a vaulted and sloped ceiling. The critical first move is confirming that the electrical box overhead is rated to carry a moving fan, not just a light fixture, because a fan puts constant vibration and weight on that box and a standard lighting box can loosen over time. Once the fan rated box is confirmed and the power is switched off at the breaker, you secure the mounting bracket to the box, feed the wiring up through the downrod, and hang the fan on the bracket using the hook so your hands are free to make the wire connections. For a nine foot ceiling the included three inch downrod usually leaves the blades at a comfortable height, while ten, eleven, and twelve foot ceilings call for progressively longer downrods of roughly eighteen, twenty four, and thirty six inches so the fan hangs where the airflow reaches you rather than pooling near the ceiling. Sloped ceilings are fully supported as long as you add the appropriate downrod length, and getting the drop right at this stage saves you from taking the whole thing down later.
Wiring the Fan Without Second Guessing Yourself
Wiring the Claymore is straightforward once the fan is hooked onto the bracket and you can see the leads. The fan connects the standard way, with the white neutral from the fan tying to the white neutral in the ceiling box, the green or bare copper ground wire tying to the ground in the box and to the mounting bracket, and the black fan wire tying to the black hot supply. The light kit adds one more wire, usually blue or striped, and how you handle it depends on how you plan to control the fan. If you are running the fan and light on a single switch and using the pull chains for everything, you cap the blue light wire together with the black fan wire so both come alive at once when the wall switch is on. If your room is wired with two switches or you want independent wall control of the light, the blue wire goes to its own switched hot instead. Every connection gets a properly sized wire nut twisted on firmly and then a gentle tug to confirm nothing pulls loose, and you tuck the finished connections neatly up into the box so the canopy closes cleanly against the ceiling. Take your time here, because a loose neutral or a lazy ground connection is behind a huge share of the flickering and buzzing complaints people blame on the fan itself.
Hanging the Blades and the Light Bowl
With the motor mounted and wired, the blades come next, and the Claymore makes this easier than most because the blades are reversible. Each blade carries a different finish on each side, so you can flip all five to the tone that suits your room before you fasten anything. You attach each blade to its blade iron with the supplied screws, then attach each loaded iron to the motor, working around the fan and snugging every screw down firmly so there is no play between the blade, the iron, and the motor. Loose blade hardware is the single most common cause of wobble, so it is worth going around a second time to double check every screw. The light kit installs after the blades. On the newer 54014 fan you connect the LED bowl light to the blue lead, seat the frosted glass bowl, and secure it, and those LED bulbs are dimmable and long lived so you should not be swapping them for years. On the older 28787 fan the fixture instead takes two sixty watt candelabra bulbs that you thread in before fitting the globe. If you would rather run the Claymore with no light at all, the fan includes a matching cap that closes off the light housing cleanly, so the choice is entirely yours.
Working the Pull Chains and the Light
Day to day, the Claymore runs on pull chains, and the WhisperWind motor gives you three speeds. One chain cycles the motor through high, medium, low, and off with each pull, and the other chain switches the light on and off. If your fan is on a single wall switch, leave that switch on and let the chains do the work, and the fan will remember its last speed the next time you flip the wall switch back on. The motor is built to run quietly, which is the whole point of the WhisperWind name, so once it is balanced you should barely hear it even on high. If you ever want wall mounted speed control or a remote, the Claymore can accept a compatible Hunter control, but out of the box the pull chains handle everything and are the simplest way to live with the fan.
Flipping the Direction for Summer and Winter
One of the most useful features on this fan is the reversible motor, and using it correctly changes how comfortable your room feels across the year. On top of the motor housing, just above where the blades meet the body, sits a small direction switch. In the warm months you want the blades pushing air straight down, which is downdraft mode, because that moving column of air creates the wind chill effect that makes you feel cooler without actually lowering the room temperature. When the weather turns cold, you flip that switch so the blades pull air up toward the ceiling, which is updraft mode, and the fan gently forces the warm air that naturally collects near the ceiling back down along the walls and into the living space. A slow speed works best in winter so you circulate the warm air without creating a draft. Always bring the fan to a complete stop before you touch the direction switch, since flipping it mid spin puts needless strain on the motor.
Stopping the Wobble Before It Drives You Crazy
A wobbling ceiling fan is almost never a defective motor, and on the Claymore it usually traces back to a handful of easy fixes. Start by confirming every blade screw and every blade iron screw is tight, because even one slightly loose fastener throws the whole fan off. Next, check that all five blades sit at the same height by measuring from a blade tip up to the ceiling and comparing that distance at each blade as you rotate them by hand. If one blade rides higher or lower than the others, a gentle adjustment of its iron often brings it into line. Confirm too that the downrod is fully seated and its pin and screws are secure, and that the mounting bracket is tight against a fan rated box, since a loose box high up will read as wobble down below. If the fan still shimmies after all of that, the balancing kit included with the fan lets you clip a weight onto a blade and slide it until the wobble disappears, which is the same method Hunter uses to fine tune fans at the factory. Patience here pays off, because a properly balanced Claymore runs smooth and quiet on every speed.
Quieting a Fan That Hums, Clicks, or Buzzes
If the fan runs but makes noise, the source is usually electrical or mechanical rather than a failing motor. A faint hum most often comes from a dimmer switch on the wall that is not compatible with the fan or its LED light, so if you have the fan wired through a wall dimmer, switching to a standard fan rated control usually silences it. A rattle or click tends to come from hardware that has not been fully tightened, so recheck the light bowl or globe, the blade screws, and the canopy screws, since any of those can chatter against the motor as it spins. Give the bulbs a check as well, because a bulb that is slightly loose in its socket can buzz. Let the fan run for a day or two after installation too, since brand new motors sometimes need a short break in period before they settle into their quietest operation. If a genuine grinding noise develops from inside the motor housing after all of these checks, that is the point to stop and contact Hunter rather than keep running it.
When the Fan or Light Refuses to Come On
When nothing happens at all, work from the wall back to the fan. Confirm the breaker is on and the wall switch is on, then confirm the pull chains are in the on position, since it is genuinely common to install a fan and forget that the light chain or the motor chain is simply switched off. If the light will not come on but the fan spins, recheck the blue light wire connection up in the box, because a light that stays dark almost always points to that lead having slipped out of its wire nut, and on the LED version confirm the bowl connector is fully seated. If the fan will not spin but the light works, the fan chain or the black fan connection is the place to look. A fan and light that are both dead usually means power is not reaching the box, so the neutral or the hot connection has come loose or the switch is not actually sending power. Working through these in order, from the breaker down to the individual connections, resolves the large majority of dead fan situations without any special tools.
Keeping the Blades and Finish Looking New
The Claymore is built to make upkeep easy, and its dual armor blade coating is designed to repel dust so the carved alder blades do not gather the heavy grime that plagues cheaper fans. A light wipe of each blade with a soft dry or barely damp cloth every few weeks keeps them clean, and you should avoid soaking them or using harsh solvents that could dull the finish or swell the wood. Wipe the brushed cocoa metalwork the same gentle way, and clean the glass bowl or globe with a soft cloth so the light stays bright and even. Every so often it is worth doing a quick pass to retighten any blade or canopy screws, since months of vibration can slowly work fasteners loose and catching that early prevents wobble from creeping back in. Because this is a dry rated indoor fan, keep it out of damp or exposed locations such as open porches or bathrooms with heavy steam, since moisture is what shortens the life of an indoor motor and finish.
What the Warranty Covers and How to Reach Hunter
Hunter backs the Claymore motor with a limited lifetime warranty, which reflects the company’s long standing reputation for motors that simply keep running, and the other components carry their own limited coverage as spelled out in the warranty section of the manual. To make any claim go smoothly, hold on to your proof of purchase and note your model number, since Hunter will ask for both, and the fifty two inch 28787 and fifty four inch 54014 are handled as different products for parts and service. If you need a replacement part such as a blade, a light bowl, a downrod, or the balancing kit, or if you have worked through the troubleshooting above and still have a problem, Hunter’s customer support can match the exact component to your model and get it out to you. Keeping the manual saved on your device, which is the reason it is embedded at the top of this page, means you always have the model number, the parts diagram, and the support details in one place whenever you need them.